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Best Zombie Apocalypse Melee Weapons

author
Brent Mccoy
• Sunday, 25 October, 2020
• 36 min read

Others will point out that the noise from a gunshot negates the advantage of range, and you will draw any nearby walking dead to your position. This carbon steel Ladies is marketed as a “machete”, but it is suited for chopping down the zombie /barbarian hordes as well as bushes.

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Contents

A Roman Ladies isn’t the most common zombie apocalypse weapon people associate with an outbreak, but there are some aspects that make it an interesting choice. The short length isn’t great for keeping the undead at a distance, but the dual-edged blade makes it excellent for a flurry of quick back-and-forth strikes when you’re in a tight spot.

The incredibly sharp tip is also perfect for piercing thrusts through almost anything, including the zombie skull. Featuring 1060 carbon steel and a differentially hardened blade that has been clay-tempered, this Katina is well-built for precise strikes.

The sturdy point is also great for piercing blows through skulls, helmets, and other barriers. The Carbon Steel Kurt has been adopted as the machete of choice for many soldiers, campers, and hikers.

The broad head and angled blade allow for more chopping power in a compact size. Machetes are simple tools typically used for hacking away at brush and plant growth on a trail, but they can also be used formidably against a brain-eater or two by anyone.

This Tomahawk-style Hatchet features a handle long enough for a two-handed grip and a sharp spike in the back. The long handle can be used as a bit, to keep the undead’s jaws occupied on something that isn’t you.

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The ability to pry open doors, lids, or whatever may contain valuables will come in handy when scavenging for goods. They are heavy to lug around for long periods, but the available titanium options are stronger and lighter.

While the lighter weight will make a crowbar easier to carry, it will also diminish its skull-crushing abilities. Though much debate could be done about the fine-grained specifics regarding individual models, there is no weapon more suitable to a wide variety of situations than an autoloading magazine-fed rifle.

Able to be loaded and readied quickly, and capable of providing sustained, accurate fire from arm's length out to standoff ranges at a rate as rapidly as the shooter can comfortably acquire targets, this sort of weapon would prove useful in nearly all survival situations, ranging from hunting and taking small and large game to defending oneself against other humans, and everything in between. With operating characteristics similar to its larger cousins, a sidearm provides the shooter with an immediately accessible secondary offensive option or reliable defensive choice that maintains a safe distance from the target in the event that their primary firearm runs dry on ammunition, malfunctions, or otherwise fails.

Such a weapon can be easily drawn and quickly reloaded, and ensures that barring some extraordinary circumstance, the shooter will always be armed. Some manner of crossbow would likely be as valuable as any firearm, and would provide a survivor with a means of eliminating single targets with a degree of subtlety not afforded by other ranged weaponry.

Aimed in a manner similar to a rifle, crossbows would prove much easier for most individuals to accustom themselves to, especially those who already possess experience in handling long guns. It can easily be seen that a decent melee implement could be a valuable last-ditch defensive tool in the event that all other means are out of reach, or if all ammunition has been expended, or in the case that a single target must be eliminated relatively quietly.

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While not the most immediately deadly weapon on the face of things, a heavy, reinforced machete or similar one-handed, bladed melee weapon has the capability of not only killing provided the user can deliver a sharp blow to the head, but can easily disable humanoid attackers, which generally requires less thoroughness and energy. Baseball bats or other sports equipment of similar construction could represent an easily-accessible and inconspicuous means of defense and attack.

Even heavy wooden implements can develop cracks after only a relatively few solid impacts and break, while their aluminum counterparts can be just as vulnerable to damage, bending and deforming in short order. Crowbars offer great utility to a survivor, enabling their user to force doors or destroy their facings, pry open containers, easily shatter most glass, and effect other means of surreptitious entry, but they also represent a decent last-ditch melee option.

There is no one-size-fits-all zombie apocalypse weapon, so let's have a little fun with this list and help find a solution that will work for you! The stress of close-quarters combat necessitates a shotgun to allow for the enormous margin of error required actually to hit your target.

For the first week of the apocalypse, a crossbow may seem a strange choice for defending against trouble. The crossbow is an accurate weapon and is the perfect option when silent kills are required.

They are far easier to master than the traditional bow and are a sustainable option for the zombie apocalypse. If you have watched The Walking Dead, then you have seen Daryl use his crossbow to kill a lot of Zombies.

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Overall, crossbows are great weapons if you are firing from a position at your advantage (such as rooftops or windows). When used with the correct amount of force, an axe can break down most body parts and barricades.

However, a misplaced blow can leave defenseless as you cannot easily stop or change your swing. Wooden bats are the most traditional but are the easiest to break in just a short period of time.

However, you may start seeing dents after continuous use, and they also give off uncomfortable vibrations after every hit. However, it requires a significant amount of upper body strength, especially if you choose to carry the lighter type.

Its curved blade was specifically made to make clean cuts through its target. It doesn’t give you the same amount of distance as the shotgun or crossbow, but the right strike will definitely let you cut through a zombie with no issues.

If you are unsure of your skill in wielding this weapon, you can handle it like a knife and attack the zombie in a stabbing motion aiming at the bottom of its jaw and upward to the base of its skull. Having a handgun that is easily accessible to you is as important as having a long gun (such as a shotgun) to give you the benefit of distance.

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A semi-automatic handgun, for example, gives you a readily accessible secondary option for offense while still providing you with a safe distance from your target. A second option is beneficial in case your primary weapon malfunctions or runs out of ammunition.

You can easily and quickly draw and reload a handgun in emergency scenarios. It is used to cut wood, thick vegetation, rainforest undergrowth, and meat.

Depending on your strength and the blade’s sharpness, it can take you one or several swings to cut through a zombie’s skull. Using both hands to hold the machete and place your strike will provide additional force and control.

Apply a twisting force to cause rotation and aim at the neck or spine to decapitate zombies. You can use it to fight off zombies at night and cut through wood or barriers during the day.

Continuous sharpening may be needed to maintain the machete’s usability for weeks and months. The advantage a long range weapon gives you are that it allows you to maintain a good distance from zombies.

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Maintain a strong and sturdy core base, then swing the weapon all the way back and smash it on the head or neck of a zombie. The best thing about sledgehammers is that you wouldn’t need to worry about dulling them out nor sharpening them frequently.

Once you make a quick and hard swing on zombies that come your way, the hatchet’s sharp blades will finish them off. If your hatchet gets stuck on the skull, make a strong front kick, and immediately go back to your defense position in case a second swing is required or another target is starting to come your way.

Remember to consistently sharpen your hatchet’s blade to keep it in good shape. A cleaving saw is designed for cutting big trenches in wood.

It has a single blade about one inch thick and a sealed guard that makes sure no zombie blood or skin gets inside the machinery. Aside from that, only a minimal portion of the saw is exposed and the serration of the blade is opposite of you.

In the end, knowledge and preparedness will give you peace of mind knowing you can protect yourself whatever happens. Since ammunition will become increasingly difficult to come by, it is important to keep a quality close-quarters weapon handy.

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Melee weapons rely entirely on the user for the energy needed to kill something and combat, even with an edged weapon, is extremely tiring and wears on the body. Melee weapons also require extreme care in their use and constant, regular maintenance anytime they are deployed.

Using melee weapons also runs the risk of exposing one's self to infection, either through a zombie bite or blood splatter. Finding one that can take repeated punishment of smashing zombie skulls is a bit trickier, but things made from aluminum are both lightweight and durable.

Typically, they are heavy weapons used by various nations across the globe during the Middle Ages. The flanked mace favored by the Mongolians was so effective that it could literally disintegrate a human skull in a single strike.

However, if you can find one and have the considerable strength and fitness required to effectively wield it, you have yourself a great close-range zombie -smasher. It would be possible to make a makeshift mace by attaching something somewhat heavy (like a rock) to a thick stick or a metal bar.

A metal stick or ball attached to a handle via a chain, flails were swung in a circular arc and brought crashing down on an enemy's head. An even more insidious weapon was the morning star, which had numerous spikes on the ball itself, and when used on an unarmored human head, could cause such damage that most of the brain itself could be flung out of the shattered skull.

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Over time and repeated usage, the spikes wear down and become nubs, but this does not significantly diminish the damage rendered. Even fully trained modern experts wear reinforced helmets when demonstrating these weapons, because the whirling ball is so unpredictable that the user has a very good chance of smashing his own brain in with the thing.

It was commonly used by infantry to knock horsemen off the horse and could penetrate the plate armor with a well-struck hit. Accurate replica war hammers can be obtained online or through Renaissance Free vendors.

It is possible to create a crude war hammer via the modification of a pickaxe or ice axe, however simply using the original weapon is more than sufficient in most cases. Basically an Asian staff, mastery of these weapons began millennia ago in the Shaolin Temple, in what is now Henan Province, China.

In addition, the kana may smash a zombie's head a little too well, splattering infected brain matter all over you like watermelons at a Gallagher show. However, if one has considerable physical strength, and uses the Kana in horizontal swings (sending infected gray matter flying away from you), then it is among the bestmeleeweapons you can get.

It is a tree branch cut into a club or whatever shape you want it, and with rows of metal bolts protruding from the sides for bashing zombies heads in. The main advantage is that it is incredibly easy to make and can supply a group with an effective melee weapon.

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They are Victorian exercise equipment (borrowed from Asian-Indian Athletes), and fell out of use in the 1930s but have recently regained a retro-comeback among some fitness enthusiasts. Some can take the shape of a glass bottle (pretty much any glass vessel with a narrow neck) and some look like giant, oversized bowling pins with faded circus paint and fading fancy letters that say stuff like “100-pound Herculean”.

An ordinary, one-handed Indian Club offer a slight increase in range over a knife, but multiple strikes may be needed to smash the brain. However, the majority of Indian Clubs that still survive are extremely well-made out of the most durable hardwoods, or occasionally metal.

This pre-contact weapon was traditionally carved from a single piece of hardwood (usually hornbeam, a variant of ironwood) and was much more durable in close-quarter combat than the indigenous stone-headed tomahawks. The slightly inverse-curved weapon typically ranged from 18" to 25" in length and was highly regarded by both Indian and Euro-Americans for its capacity to smash a human skull with a single full-arm swing.

Even after the introduction of steel-headed tomahawks, ball-headed war clubs remained popular for Indian warriors as they never needed to be sharpened, did not rust or have their heads come loose, and could be carried slung through a belt with no fear of cutting the user. They can be made of wood or polypropylene, and are effective in bashing skulls and bones of both the living and undead.

Most nun chucks comprised two identical wooden sticks connected by rope or small linked chain. While potentially devastating to a human opponent (who reacts to both pain and visual misdirection) nun chucks are ill-advised to dispatch a zombie.

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One has to get within grabbing distance to connect a blow with them, and unless the entire structure is made of a sturdy metal or studded, the impact on a skull will, at best, cause a small crack. Skip all the fancy but utterly useless martial arts movie moves), you have yourself an amazing close-quarters zombie smasher.

It is advisable to practice sufficiently before the zombie apocalypse in order to attain the necessary level of competence with the Nanchang, as they are also functional against multiple zombies. As seen on some YouTube channels, chain can be used to smash a normal human skull easily.

A police officer's nightstick, also known as a Baton or Tonga is specifically designed so that it doesn't kill people, only incapacitates them. Best to ignore these, unless the situation dictates that you get out of an area as quickly as possible, leaving you little time to kill each and every zombie, in which case these would be useful in shoving aside ghouls in your way.

On the other hand, a steel Tonga (while rare) could provide the weight and therefore generate enough force to take out a zombie in only a few, well-aimed strikes. The PR-24 can be used to kill zombies by holding the short handle and spinning the baton, connecting to the head.

Made to be sturdy due to their purpose of prying things open, this is an incredibly useful weapon, and extremely versatile tool as well. Not only can you bash zombies with it, but, with a good swing, the claw end can puncture the skull and rip through the brain with minimal splatter (be careful not to get it stuck).

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Also, using a spiked bat may completely shatter the skull, sending blood and brain matter everywhere, raising the chances of infection. They have a long reach and can be found anywhere baseball is played (which is to say, anywhere in North America), and most importantly, they have enough power to crack a skull open in one blow or if you need to cripple it, a good hit in the spine will do.

For most people, taking a ghoul down should be easy, assuming the person is not suffering from intense strain in a muscle. Bats are very easily found, require no prior experience to become effective, and are very durable and light weight.

Modern ski poles are most commonly made from aluminum and carbon fiber, though materials such as bamboo are still used. Not really any better than a section of pipe or crowbar of similar size in terms of damage or length, and also a bit harder to find, a ski pole would bend pretty easily and be overall useless, but hey, if this is your only option for a weapon, then you might as well use it.

A typical two-piece cue for pocket billiards is usually made mostly of hard rock maple, with a fiberglass or phenolic resin ferrule, usually 0.75 to 1 inch (19 to 25 mm) long, and steel joint collars and pin. While there are many custom cue makers, a very large number of quality pool cues are manufactured in bulk.

In recent years, more technological materials such as fiberglass, carbon fiber, aluminum, etc., have been increasingly used for shafts and butts, and there has been a trend toward experimentation with rubber, memory foam and other soft wraps. Used in bar fights, a pool cue is an utterly useless weapon against undead.

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Although it is known to injure many people in fights, a hockey stick sadly lacks the durability and strength to smash a skull. However, a hockey stick can be used to gain the upper hand against poorly armed or unarmed human adversaries.

Tennis rackets lack the strength to break the skull no matter what, and they should never be used for a weapon. If nothing else in the general area would be useful, tennis rackets may serve a purpose for simply knocking zombies aside.

A good rule of thumb is that the heavier something is, the easier it will crush a skull, although it may take you off balance and tire you out more quickly. Common pipes are usually lead, but are also made from copper, iron, steel and PVC plastic.

Steel and lead pipes would be best suited for the task of bashing heads, although, like bats, they still require a great deal of upper body strength. Pipes can also be further weighed and reinforced by stuffing heavy materials like concrete to the hollow cavity.

If used correctly, it has the capability to break bones and crush skulls with generally less effort, making it an effective bludgeon. It can be used in the place of a large collection of wrenches, loosening nuts, bolts, and pipes of a wide variety.

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The frying pan is very common around households and is very heavy, which provides enough force to shatter a decomposed head. However, frying pans (aka “skillets”) are a bit heavy and take a lot of effort to constantly swing around.

In the zombie apocalypse, Brass Knuckles are primarily good weapons due to their low size and weight. When the wearer punches into a zombie's or survivor's body, it is highly likely to cause severe tissue damage and fractures.

This is because, though deadly in the right hands, brass knuckles have very low range, and as such, one mistimed swing can lead to infection. They can be found in many pawn shops, Brass Knuckles are illegal in most states, making them rather difficult to find.

Should you have access to somebody with metalworking skills, brass knuckles are very easy to make out of materials such as metal or wood? With a heavy end weighing as much as ten pounds connected to a long two-to-three foot pole made of wood or impact plastics.

However, it is a heavy weapon and requires a significant amount of strength to lift and use for the average person. Since most are made of metal and have both heavy and blunt ends, they are sometimes depicted as ad hoc weapons (as in the original Night of the Living Dead).

Due to the awkward shape of the tire iron, it may be hard to swing with enough force to shatter the skull in a single blow. It is a brute force weapon, meaning it should take a fairly strong blow to destroy the brain of a zombie.

On the other hand, the older style, which resembles a crowbar, except for the socket part, can be highly effective, should you be able to find one. A Japanese training sword, the broken, or the heavier subunit could be formidable, as it is solid and balanced for swinging.

When determining whether to use a particular stick, a simple test for durability is to strike the end against a hard surface, like the ground, or a tree, in a firm manner, as if you were trying to bash the object in. The Lobotomized or the “Logo” is a fictional melee weapon in Max Brook's World War Z.

Simply take a flat shovel (too inefficient in digging for military usage as an e-tool anyway), preferably no larger than two feet long, and weld two axe blades on either side. It can be used for piercing, smashing, and slashing, though the latter works somewhat ineffectively, and all will ruin your e-tool if you actually sharpen it.

Plastic, Bamboo, or Wood (those that rake leaves) are lighter but lack the strength and durability to survive a bludgeon to a Zed's head (which is usually the only way it works) while the opposite remains true for rakes of iron or steel (ones that till dirt); strong to kill, but cumbersome to use efficiently unless you're strong like Zhu Basie. However, most slashing weapons were designed to fell opponents who feel pain, require organs and bleed out.

The appropriate angles for “flat grind” edge bevels (which excludes traditionally sharpened bananas) are: Equally useful both a tool and a weapon, it typically requires several swings to penetrate the skull, or one very well-placed strike.

Frequent sharpening may be necessary to keep the machete usable over weeks and months of usage. Machetes can, of course, still be used for their original purpose of hacking through dense forestry should jungle travel be required.

The deep belly distributes the force of the cut far more efficiently into a concentrated area, ensuring that a decent blow will easily cleave a skull or sever a spine, even while used with one hand. They are designed to be easy to sharpen on hard (but smooth) stone surfaces, be relatively lightweight, and be used all day without causing exhaustion.

However, a cleaving saw, designed for sawing massive trenches in wood (and skulls) has a single blade about an inch thick and has a sealed guard around it that completely eliminates the threat of zombie's blood and guts from interfering with the machinery. Also, it doesn't need to be lubricated, due to the fact that a single coat sticks into the rubber liners inside the actual rotors and last for decades.

The amount of saw actually exposed is minimal, about that of a waning moon at it's the most extreme period. Also, the inclination of the serration in the blade causes all discharge to be flung at the ground and not towards you, like traditional saws do.

Cleavers are excellent at chopping through flesh and can be wielded with great dexterity and precision with practice, but the problem comes when trying to break bones. The cleaver is designed for cutting meat and simply does not have the heft to cleave through a zombie skull.

A knife is a sharp blade, typically between three and ten inches long, attached to a handle. First, their short reach requires one to get in close in order to attack, which present a great deal of danger.

Arguably the best combat purpose a knife can serve as an absolute last resort, extreme close-quarters, semi-disposable weapon, to be jammed into a zombies eye, under the chin (if long enough) or, best of all, temple. When wielding, should also take care to keep in mind if the knife has a cross guard of some kind, helps prevent the hand's inertia to carry it forward, onto the blade, and cutting it, during a stabbing motion.

Traditionally, it features a blade at least 9" long (up to 14"), primarily single edged with a short sharpened back-edge (the latter usually concave curved). A long and heavy enough Bowie is capable of devastating bone-shearing cuts which can readily dismember and decapitate humanoid targets.

Apparently derived from the ancient Carthaginian Falcate and brought to South Asia by Roman merchants, the inverse curved Kurt (“kookier”) became the national weapon of Nepal and famous in the hands of the Gurkha soldiers employed by both the British and Indian armies. For its capacity to split skulls, take off heads, or lop off limbs, the Kurt is many a zombie -killer’s first choice as a melee weapon.

The inexpensive “issue” Kurt requires extensive re-filing of the blade bevels to begin to be useful. Unlike its short counterpart, the blade tip is broad rather than sharp, thus making it unsuitable for fencing.

It has disc-like pommel and guard and was intended to be held single-handed, thus leaving your other hand free to preform other tasks. If available, it should provide the power of an ax without the inconvenience of having to handle swords two-handed and to some extents promote the wielder as a menacing character.

The Oxford English Dictionary suggests Shiva, a razor, documented in 1915, as the root word. They are undesirable though since they have short reach (even shorter than a fixed blade knife) and will break after lots of abuse.

Truly skilled users can not only draw and cut or stab a target in less than a second, they can also change fighting grips and switch hands in an impressively flashy manner. While a particularity naive bandit might be intimidated by your Bali song flipping skills, Zombies will not be impressed.

Currently, the Bali song is illegal due to being categorized under “automatic knife” (switchblade) statues in most countries, but this does not prevent people from buying it. Belt buckle knives are popular with outdoors men, self-defense enthusiasts, and members of groups that have a knife culture.

A belt buckle knife can come in many styles, but there are two primary types: folding knives and push daggers. A combination of a brass knuckle handgrip with a long spike or knife blade on one end, these are among the best weapons to use if you are forced into close-quarter combat with the living dead.

Until recently most of the trench knives that could be found were the poor quality World War 1 models. World War I models are extremely rare nowadays and the few that do exist are most likely not in combat condition, due to the fact that they are ninety-year-old museum pieces.

If you want a good trench knife, you will likely have to order one online from weapon specialists, such as Cold Steel, before the zombie apocalypse. Against zombies, the best technique for using a trench knife would be holding it in a “hammer grip” (blade sticking out the thumb side of your clenched fist), so one can bring the skull crushing pommel in a backhand action to target the off-side temple, or downward on the zombie's skull using the large muscles of the back and abdomen to power the strike.

The blade should be pumped upward under the jaw penetrating the brain cavity, and of course, the brass knuckles can be used to smash into the zombie's temple (the temple bones are NOT thinner than the rest of the skull, but they are flatter, meaning a strike of any kind is less likely to glance off). In summary, while trench knives are very good for hand-to-hand combat, they can be extremely hard to come by, unless bought online.

Sickles are meant as hand-held agricultural tools with a variously curved blade typically used for harvesting grain crops or cutting succulent forage chiefly for feeding livestock. Despite having to be in close range and sometimes getting caught and hard to pull out due to its curved blade, the sickle is very light and is a great weapon and tool to survive with.

Points are often reinforced for added effectiveness in puncturing mail, and would easily pierce a zombie skull. Also, they are more cumbersome and harder to carry than your average knife, but the ability to instantly kill with a punch, one of the most basic human actions, would be useful.

Also known as a “sword gauntlet”, the data is an exotic Indian weapon used by Maratha warriors that functions as just as an extended Qatar. The data is mainly composed of two parts: One is a single piece of metal which wraps around the outside of the users hand and forearm, acting as a gauntlet which one would use to deflect blows that would normally be parried with a sword.

The other main part of the data is a straight double-edged sword blade sticking out of the gauntlet at around the knuckle area of the user, which can be used for a variety of slashing and stabbing purposes (though considering the length of the blade, “pulling out” would be a difficult task, making stabbing with the data highly discouraged). The data was remarked as being a “highly effective weapon for infantrymen against heavily armored cavalry”.

Like the Qatar, one is not at any disadvantage if they don't have one, but the data's relatively intuitive “controls” give it a good appeal among survivors looking for a strong melee weapon. The historic usage of the Urumqi was as a concealable weapon for defense against multiple unarmored opponents.

Additionally, the Urumqi is a very difficult weapon to master and like European flails, often more dangerous for the user than against any opponents. A bayonet will prove useful as a last stand weapon due to having it always (usual choice in a zombie situation) equipped.

Modern military techniques are all but useless in event of a zombie outbreak, as they almost exclusively target the torso, not the head. If you can't find an ice pick, another idea is to file down a screwdriver to a sharp point.

Invented in the 11th century AD (as the ta chi), they all possess the same basic profile; a two-hand grip, a small circular guard, a moderately curved blade, and (with a few rare exceptions) a long single edge. A shorter (24 inch blade), more greatly-curved Katina known as a chisa-katana was usually reserved for close-quarters indoor combat within one’s home.

While swords were third-priority weapons in Japanese warfare, (bows and eventually muzzle-loading firearms were first priority and pole arms such as spears (yard) and halberds (paginate) were second priority) a highly reverential “cult of the sword” developed in Japan through the Warring States and Tokugawa periods. The most sophisticated Japanese sword techniques were actually developed during the enforced peace of the Tokugawa shogunate (1601-1873) when unarmored duels and other informal encounters became the norm of samurai conflict.

The Katina can easily cut through unarmored targets as long as the proper draw-cutting technique is used. This draw-cutting method is not innate (like linear hitting or chopping is) and requires considerable training to perform consistently, effectively, and safely.

During the Japanese feudal period, swords were often tested by cutting several bodies (of executed criminals) in half, the most common being two-body-blades, but going up to six-body-blades. What must be remembered is that test-cutting of human bodies was performed by highly skilled professionals, using extra-long grips for increased torque, and under ideal (non-combat) conditions.

The Katina’s hilt and blade curve reduces the effort needed to produce devastating draw-cuts when combined with the proper hip and shoulder twisting actions (torque) found in Japanese swordsmanship. Traditional Katina blades are composed as 3 to 9 piece forge-welded “sandwiches” of various grades of hard and soft laminated (“pattern-welded” or “Damascus”) steel blanks.

Traditional bananas are also differentially tempered so the back and belly of the blade remain somewhat soft and flexible, but the cutting edge is very hard (about 62 on the Rockwell scale). This was done to encourage the samurai to keep their distance when using the weapon; this same advice will be helpful in the fight against the undead.

Properly forged bananas have a “distal taper” being slightly thicker nearest the guard than the tip; this aids in making the Katina stronger nearest the hilt for making parries and aids in balance as well. Though this was primarily meant to allow the Katina to block with the dull back to reduce the risk of damage to the blade, this still does reduce the versatility of the weapon when facing other melee weapons --this single edge limitation, of course, has no bearing when used against zombies.

Traditional cloth-cord grip wrapping needs to be periodically tightened or even replaced when displaced by sweat or blood. The great majority of “Bananas” found in the West are not actual weapons, they are mass-produced stainless-steel “wall-hangers” that can come apart with a hard swing in the air (see the movie Paul), let alone contacting a substantive target like a human body.

Though a Katina can last a very long time, it does require cleaning after every fight as soon as possible to avoid damage--but this can be said about ANY carbon steel bladed weapon. As he has stated at public speakings, the Katina is the favored weapon of Max Brooks, writer of “The Zombie Survival Guide”.

Brooks claims that until the lightsaber from “Star Wars” is made real, the Katina is the best melee weapon to use against the undead, although many actual sword experts and aficionados disagree with this gushing assessment. Regardless of opinions, you're in no doubt safe hands if you can find and have the skills to use a real Katina.

However, it was also a self-defense blade, samurai were not allowed to take their Katina to certain places or in certain buildings, but the Takanashi never left his side. Translating into “field sword”, the coach was used primarily against cavalry, and could easily cut a man in two.

Known under the misnomer of “broadsword”, the single-hand sword dates back to circa 300 BC, created under the iron-working expertise of Central European Celts. The blade profile, depending on period and intended technique emphasis, is either a parallel or a taper (slight or acute) from hilt to point.

Several popular myths exist about 1-Hand swords, the primary (and totally false) one being they were “heavy, ill-balanced, and edgeless iron clubs”. For the intended use of long range slashing, shearing chops, and committed thrusts, these swords were well-balanced battle weapons and should not be compared to dueling rapiers and small swords, let alone ultra-light sport fencing implements.

The medium to high carbon content of their steel blades meant they could be hardened to a spring temper for durability, and they can take a keen “battle edge” (though not has long-lasting as a traditional Katina edge a user could easily re-sharpen a European blade, unlike the Japanese sword). The devastating cutting power of these weapons should not be underestimated; against unarmored targets 1-Handed swords can easily dismember or decapitate with a single strike.

An early 20th Century archeological excavation of the Battle of Wispy (Sweden) excavated 14th Century skeletons with horrific bone-shearing injuries; including split open skulls and cleanly severed legs, including one example of a double-leg amputation from a single sword stroke. Like any other replica weapon purchase ($175-$1000+), caveat editor (“buyer beware”) is the operating slogan when looking for a combat quality sword.

The primary cutting and slashing technique of the one-hand sword uses from-the-shoulder circular-swings to power through flesh and bone and NOT the form the wrist snap-hits or wrap-around swings endemic in the sport-fighting of many fantasy medievalist groups. The Long sword was created circa 1230 AD in an attempt to counter the increasing amounts of thicker and stronger mail armor encountered on European battlefields.

These swords emphasize shearing chops on unarmored opponents, and the use of techniques such as halfswording to deal with armored opponents to guide the point more easily to the weak points of the armor and get to the flesh beneath. By 1300, heavier and longer variations of the Long swords mandated two-hand use, and they are known as Great Swords, which includes the famous Scottish Claymore.

With the gradual adoption of plate harness (armor) by medieval chivalry and men-at-arms throughout the 14th century, more slender, thrust-oriented 2-Hand Long swords were developed with blades from 36” to 38” long and just over 3 pounds in weight. These weapons are simply known as Long swords and became very popular in the Germanizes and Italics, and numerous fectbuchts (fight books) were written for their use.

These specialist weapons had blades up to 60 inches in length, very large guards, and weighed from 6.5 to 8 pounds. Long swords (especially the lighter variants) can easily be used and carried by an individual of average weight and strength to cut through zombie flesh and bone.

Most long swords come double-edged so care must be taken not to cut oneself while using it, but as with any weapon, training and knowledge is critical. There are publications available on-line for German and Italian long sword: it is recommended you read and practice proper technique.

About as much maintenance, cleaning and sharpening, as a common-variety machete is required to keep the blade in working order. Western medieval martial arts are enjoying somewhat of a rebirth, and vendors on-line offer functional, 'battle ready' long swords.

European swords in general are easily attained at curiosity shops, collectors’ fairs, and private ownership vendors throughout the entirety of the United States ($200-$1000+). For openers, replica swords frequently have a 'rat tail' tang, a small diameter tube concealed by the handle.

And finally, forget about any long sword blade that is stainless steel; it's great in kitchen prepping dinner, but sucks as a sword. A short Sword will have a thicker blade than a machete making it less likely to get stuck or glance off of a zombie's skull.

Good examples of competent short swords include the Roman Ladies or the “Russo” Pattern Bowie Knife. While there are newer variants of short swords which feature titanium lead-weighted blades, the practical superiority of these expensive variations over traditional carbon-steel short swords has not been proven.

Described as “a cleaver with a point", an accurate copy of a Roman Ladies (18" long blade) can be obtained for less than $200. A popular archer's and infantry soldier's short-sword, the wide and thick blade could shear through mail armor with a good strike, so it is quite capable of amputating and decapitating unarmored human targets.

It is thought the latter and larger 2-hand Gross Lesser (“Big Knife”) was derived from the Fashion. Reproduction Factions, like other Medieval weapon replicas, can be ordered online as well as through Renaissance Fair vendors.

Sabers are curved swords originally designed for use by cavalry troopers and officers. A shorter bladed version, known as a “cutlass” or “hanger” was designed for sailors, marines, and enlisted infantry soldiers.

The primary emphasis of a saber is slashing and cutting at enemies whilst mounted on a rapidly moving horse (because thrusting tends to be difficult and ineffective while mounted) A cutlass excels in the close confines of boarding actions against enemy vessels. Sabers (or hangers) were often left in an unsharpened condition to avoid cutting the user during practice (in pre-antibiotic eras a strong consideration).

With an effective saber a person of reasonable strength can easily cut off limbs, split human skulls, and decapitate heads. Actual test cutting has proven this assertion beyond any doubt and the historical record (such as the British cavalry against the French during the Battle of Waterloo) backs up this claim.

While the earliest Eastern European Sabers started off with minimal cross or bar-knuckle guards, by the late 18th Century more protective hilts were adopted, especially after the combat experience of the Napoleonic Era. Multiple-bar hilts or shell guards not only protect the users hands from an enemy's melee weapon strikes, they can be used as a metal fist for close in punching attacks---a strong consideration for choosing an anti- zombie weapon.

Several affordable and effective reproduction sabers (Sabre, alternative spelling) are available through mail order ($75-$400) and still-combat worthy antique sabers can be purchased at gun shows, antique stores, and military shops ($150-$1000). Its double or triple-fullered blade is really no sharper than a standard pre-1850 saber design (see above), and is not larger, let alone stronger than Western European sabers, The Sasha is essentially guardless; allowing the hilt also go partially inside the scabbard to protect it from the element--however the lack of a guard means a users hand is more vulnerable to attacks from another melee user's weapon and cannot be used to power punch a skull like one can do with other swords with substantial cross or knuckle guards.

The powerful, rugged blade is ideal for both slashing, chopping, and thrusting, but not for utility chores like woodcutting--such abuse will cause it and any other thin-bladed sword to quickly break., A Sasha can can easily cut through human bones but not hard resistant armor like mail or plate. Cossack craftsmen in the former USSR still made them until recently, so anyone living there can easily get hold of well-made, authentic models.

The Tulsa has a reputation for being a more effective sword than the Western Saber, however this reputation is largely derived from the two “Sikh Wars” in the early 19th century when British cavalry troopers (East India Company) received devastating cutting wounds from Sikh warriors using Bulwark. The quality of standard-grade India-made sword steel in the 19th century was often shoddy and the British blades much preferred by the Sikhs.

Some bulwark, especially ones from the Punjabi region, also incorporate sturdy knuckle-guards that can double as brass knuckles in a pinch (see “trench knife” above). Plain, unadorned early to mid 19th century specimens can often be obtained for a reasonable price.

Ignoring the forging that goes into the swords, the Tulsa is similar in shape to the Katina but has more curvature and a straight hilt. A Day sword, like the European Fashion and Gross Lesser, is a “weaponized machete”, derived from agricultural cutting tools, and used by both peasants and common soldiers during China's frequent wars and rebellions.

The common day pattern has a swelling “belly” profile that tapers in most examples to a serviceable but not overly acute point. Days manufactured for performances, including most of those used in martial arts tournaments, are not true weapons.

Their thin blades lend an impressive speed but lack the proper inertia to make an effective cut. Weapon quality days are still manufactured by Cold Steel and Hanna cutlery companies.

Test-cutting of weapon quality Days show they can shear through thick bone with only moderate effort. Sometimes called a “tai chi sword” it, like the Day, is used in all Northern Kung Fu styles.

The “scholar”s Jean”, most associated with the Mandarin caste, is a thin-bladed sword that has the same tactical urban self-defense role as the European Rapier or Small-Sword did. While a very nimble weapon, it lacks the mass to make the effective cuts necessary for anti- zombie application.

A signature weapon of Southern Chinese Gunge (Lungful) styles, classically it’s used in matching pairs but both are carried in a single sheath. It would be easy to tell the difference between a well-known and easily recognized sporting good and a surplus antique or faithful reproduction) It lacks the power or weight to sever bone, the weight to crush a skull, and the stabbing and slashing motions it was designed for will have little to no effect on your undead attacker.

The only possible killing strategy would be to stab a zombie through the eye followed by an agile twirling motion to scramble the brain like an egg. A good rule of thumb for stainless steel swords (that is usually ignored) is that any blade over 12" is generally too brittle to be able to endure serious use.

Pole Weapons date back into prehistory, based on the concept of doing damage at a safe distance. Today, most spears are relegated to ceremonial roles, or are used by indigenous tribes in remote corners of the world.

The spear offers a great range advantage over other melee weapons, with some exceeding seven to eight feet, and they are as easy to create as sharpening a broom handle or duct-taping a sharp object to the end of one. The only practical ways to kill a zombie with a spear are penetration through the eye socket, or under the jaw, into the brain.

Throwing a spear like a javelin is not advised, as it is nearly impossible to hit a target as small as a human head. Groups with spears can greatly multiply the melee effectiveness of their group, as they can impale and detain a zombie, while another can focus on the kill, especially when using Boar spears, which have a cross piece part way up the shaft to prevent the zombie from continuing towards you.

The spear tips on these are nearly a foot or two long, and are bladed on either end, giving one more slashing options in a fight (although it still takes some skill to pull off a decapitation). Pikes were used regularly in European warfare from the early Middle Ages until around 1700, and were wielded by foot soldiers deployed in close quarters.

Using a pocket knife, one can sharpen a 6-foot-long stick to make a spear. Bills, volumes, pikes and Is essentially fall into the Halberd category, just in different shapes.

A halberd is a combination of a spear and a poleaxe, with a long sharp point on the top, a curving blade on one side and any number of hooks, spikes, or blunted edges. The halberd was originally a hedge-trimming tool adapted for use against armored horsemen, with the numerous pointy ends designed to catch a rider’s cloak and drag him to the ground, the ax blade, spikes and spear tip for puncturing through plate armor and chain mail, and the curving edges and hooks designed to pry and cut off armor plates like a can opener.

When used on an unarmored head, the halberd can easily bash open a skull and decapitate. The halberd can also be used to cut fruit off trees and move certain objects around high places.

Combining the cutting power of a curved sword with the reach of a spear, the Pole Blades are highly recommended if you are in an open field. Although ineffective against chain-mail and plate armor, the chances you'll encounter a zombie with anything more protective than a construction helmet are slim at best.

The Paginate for example, which is essentially a Katina on a 7-foot stick, has been proven to be able to decapitate up to three human targets in a single lightning-fast swing, and can easily cleave off a skullcap, so you can imagine how useful they can be against zombies, though even if you are native of Japan, these weapons are not usually produced, you would need to have connections to have one made or need to find an antique, and since in fell out of favor in favor of the Yard, they will be significantly older than any given Katina, and will likely have poorer blades. A similar weapon is the Guano, allegedly invented and named after the Chinese hero Gun You, and although larger and heavier than its Japanese cousin, has enough power to cleave a man in two.

Realistically, unless you are a trained expert with this weaponry, the extended reach will only afford you increased inaccuracy in a high pressure situation. Just as old as the spear, the Javelin is a small, narrow, lightweight, spear-like weapon designed primarily for throwing.

They evolved over time with the spear, and were used by many ancient armies, as well as by such societies as the Aztec and the Zulu. Also, while a low-quality but reasonably effective spear can be created using household objects, a javelin requires precise crafting in order to fly far and be accurate.

Overall, unless you are a skilled expert and are engaging a few zombies, it is recommended that some other weapon be used, such as a suppressed firearm or crossbow. A shovel has the power and durability to effectively kill a zombie, but it is rather hard to maneuver, especially because the vast majority of the weapon is the stick part.

It requires a good amount of physical strength to use, so make sure you’re ready for it. A Pitchfork is an agricultural tool with a long handle and long, thick, widely separated pointed tines (also called prongs) used to lift and pitch (throw) loose material, such as hay, straw or leaves.

The downside would be eventually if you are fighting too many enemies such as zombies for a greater example, the chances that you would overwhelm would occur. Pitchforks can be found in hardware or garden stores, but possibly hard to find during a scenario.

This served two purposes: they could bury any corpses they found with the proper Buddhist rites, and they could defend themselves against bandits. However, you are even less likely to find one of these (battle-ready or prop) than most other medieval weapons, unless you are SHA During or just an ordinary Shaolin monk.

With a mill bastard file and some honing stone application, the thick edge of an Ice Chopper can easily be turned into a skull spitting anti- zombie pole arm. With a reasonably-sharp blade and a committed thrust, the removal of the top part of the zombie's skull is a frequent result.

Similar to the Ice Chopper, except for having a blade in the form of a half moon, much like the Shaolin Spade it can be substituted for. While used clear sidewalks of overgrown grass, these make effective makeshift weapons.

The iconic pick-axe is a two-pronged tool with a flat spade-like end and a spike, and with a handle commonly made out of wood. “Tomahawk” is derived from an Algonquin word used for the indigenous stone hand-axes of Northeast North America and immediately applied to the trade steel and iron headed hand axes introduced by Europeans in that area, circa 1590.

Tomahawks were used by Indians and European colonists primarily as weapons and secondarily as utility tools. Throughout American military history Tomahawks have been used, by either unit or individual basis, as close-quarter weapons.

A tomahawk is a one-handed weapon with a wood or synthetic pole (shaft) ranging from 12" to 24" in length and single-bit metal axe head with an opposite-side spike, hammer, pipe-bowl (decorative) or plain pole-ring. While belt sheaths are commonly issued for modern Tomahawks, traditionally they were slung through a simple leather loop (much like a carpenter's hammer loop) or just slipped through the user's pants or web belt with the chisel-beveled edge facing away from the user.

A quality Tomahawk, of either traditional or modern design, is a formidable, easy to use melee weapon which lends itself well to a wide variety of skill levels, from the rank beginner to the close-quarters expert. While lacking the range of a sword or pole-arm, a tomahawk is near ideal for using in a cluttered interior space.

While historically, tomahawks were sometimes thrown in combat it was almost always done to distract an opponent while closing in to use the offhand weapon. As a result of Gulf War I & II use, Tomahawks have regained popularity as tactical and survival weapons and are commonly available in sporting good stores or mail order.

There exists “wall hanger” versions of Tomahawks which are shoddy and should utterly be avoided for weapon use. They are meant for cutting through thick, heavy material, which is why loggers and firemen alike still use them on a daily basis.

With an average weight of 4 to 5 pounds a single-bit ax can easily split a human's skull in two with a single blow. The polled ax is widely available from most hardware or feed stores and therefore is the most common type of axe it's all quite good at breaching doors however, this will be LOUD.

The fire ax can be found somewhat commonly in buildings where they are kept in locked metal cases attached to the wall. However, as the name suggests it lacks a poll reducing not only the weight but, unfortunately the versatility as well limiting the use of this ax type to chopping wood and zombies.

While suffering from the same weakness as their single-bit counterparts i.e. handle fragility, the double-bit ax also can't be used to breach doors. As a tool and as a means of defense, the hatchet will likely save more lives than any other melee weapon on this list.

The hatchet is easy to carry and adequate brain damage could be caused with a single hit. Though throwing with sufficient force and accuracy is difficult, the weapon's availability makes it nearly expendable.

The weapon is difficult to unsheathe quickly, so keeping a razor's edge on the hatchet would not be preferred. Keep it blunt enough not to easily cut, but sharp enough to chop wood with good force.

The traditional weapon of the Saxon hussars they have a large amount of power and can cleave a zombie skull easily as long as you have the necessary upper body strength. However, these weapons can tire you easily and the long shaft makes it less effective in close quarters.

Poleaxes were originally designed to cave in or punch through a medieval helmet making them very effective zombie killers. Secondly they will require a high level of skill to use well and a long stick will break over time due to the centrifugal forces associated with such combat.

Also, medieval poleaxes had long vertical iron strips called “lancets” to prevent an opposing soldier chopping the head off their weapon. Thanks to horror movies like the Evil Dead series, the Texas Chainsaw Massacre series and video games, many people immediately think of chainsaws when they think of great weapons for killing zombies.

), they're loud, they can get jammed with zombie guts, they create splatter that can get in your face and infect the wielder. The chainsaw itself would surely take some damage from bone and gore pieces hitting the chain, and the power source may deplete before you can finish them off.

Finally, the “scare effect” of fighting a chainsaw-wielding lunatic is completely lost on the unfeeling undead. Also, the chainsaw in terms of killing power is a tad overkill, and requires some effort on the part of the user to cut into a zombie's neck or head, and pulling the weapon out after the kill can be difficult due to weight and often panic caused by the numerous other zombies swarming over you.

In short, a simple club or sword is recommended over the chainsaw, despite the infamy bestowed upon the device by Hollywood and slasher films. The most important thing to consider when choosing an improvised weapon it the object's ability to crush the skull.

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Sources
1 www.bizapedia.com - https://www.bizapedia.com/people/district-of-columbia/washington/do-kim.html
2 washington.org - https://washington.org/visit-dc/winter-wonderland/free-things-do-winter-dc
3 freetoursbyfoot.com - https://freetoursbyfoot.com/things-to-do-in-dc/
4 kim.house.gov - https://kim.house.gov/contact/offices/washington-dc-office
5 apps.opm.gov - https://apps.opm.gov/abo/
6 www.bravotv.com - https://www.bravotv.com/the-daily-dish/kyle-richards-send-daughter-sophia-umansky-off-to-college-in-washington-dc