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Are Z Zegna Suits Fused

author
Brent Mccoy
• Monday, 16 November, 2020
• 8 min read

I'm particularly interested in the MM line, but also the OR. I know that it can be very confusing, as someone recently mentioned a number of Cornelius models that were fused and then the better ones that were not.

zegna ermenegildo suits tailored suit cloth italian designer twill bright square
(Source: www.moss.co.uk)

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Fairly nice fabrics, but I would not try it for fear its quality is not up to snuff. Perry, Yes, it is made at the same plant as the Z line in Mexico.

I tried one on once at Woodbury, but it had a bit of that Kevlar feel to it, at least more so than the Began jacket I have, so I never looked at them again. I think they were selling for around 500 at Woodbury, I would rather pick up a Cornelia on E bay for less than get a Gritty, even for a beater suit.

Fairly nice fabrics, but I would not try it for fear its quality is not up to snuff. The stuff was pretty well-made in the late 80s, but quality has been very poor for a good long time.

Interesting... I have never seen a sartorial line suit from Began that is fused. Matt, I hate to disagree with a friend but my recent items from Began seem to be of still high quality for the price. The stuff was pretty well-made in the late 80s, but quality has been very poor for a good long time.

My impression of Began is that in the last year or so they've revved thing up a bit, though I agree with you in general that, barring a few lines their average quality has not been what it was in the 1980s for quite a while. If I recall, the fabric grades start at E, and it was a G or H. It probably dates from the late 1990s or early 2000s.

couture zegna galles fused jacket veste laine ermenegildo
(Source: www.zegna.dk)

It was of the line with the label reading just “Ermenigildo Began “. My tailor had to rework the collar, so I'm certain it was fused, however. In all, it made decide not to buy any Zegnasuits in the future.

The Began suit is known for its superb tailoring, fine Italian craftsmanship, and fantastic fabrics. Created almost 100 years ago, this brand has kept its traditional styles and has still managed to do much more than endure the test of time.

Descendants of the original creator Emenegildo, have this to say about their product line, “very classic tailoring, rich and supple fabrics, and obsessive attention to detail make Began the Rolls-Royce of menswear”. Began does not do anything less than full lining so expect maximum comfort when wearing any of these suits.

This suit can be found in traditional colors and patterns with a contemporary cut. This solid navy Began suit is currently being sold at Nordstrom for $1,395.00This is a current model (2016) solid navy blue Began suit.

As you can see, it is a two button suit in a conservative color with shoulders that gently slope in a very natural way. Today I went to Sky Valet in Georgetown, a shoe store I recently became acquainted with and like a lot.

modesens zegna
(Source: www.pinterest.com)

He also said that Canal and Began at Bloomingdale's (where Mr. Gerard used to work) are a lower quality than they are at another DC men' shop called James (an establishment I don't know). Jack Victor is fused top to bottom and then a small canvass chest piece is sewn in, this is not the case with any Canal I have seen or owned, and subtly, that seems to be the implication made.

So, technically speaking, some models may be found that have a small partial canvassing but that is the desired effect for that jacket. I have not looked close enough to comment on Bloomingdale's Canal suits.

I hope I have expressed my self clearly, I am filing expense accounts at the moment and wrote very quickly, sorry. What was the basis for his claim? I hope I have expressed my self clearly, I am filing expense accounts at the moment and wrote very quickly, sorry.

Yes, perhaps some mainline Canals may exist that are not canvassed, but it's like a Toyota salesmen telling you Honda's are crap. Jack Victor is fused top to bottom and then a small canvass chest piece is sewn in, this is not the case with any Canal I have seen or owned, and subtly, that seems to be the implication made.

So, technically speaking, some models may be found that have a small partial canvassing but that is the desired effect for that jacket. I have not looked close enough to comment on Bloomingdale's Canal suits.

zegna suit suits italist
(Source: www.italist.com)

I hope I have expressed my self clearly, I am filing expense accounts at the moment and wrote very quickly, sorry. The OP referenced (in 2007) a men's clothing store called James.

As a sad coincidence, I walked past this store in Tyson's Galleria just yesterday and saw that it is closing its doors permanently. I wanted to add this, I recently purchased a began suit at sacs it fit me nearly as well as some mm options I have in my closet.

I received numerous compliments at a wedding a recently attended. My point is that I would overlook a suit or shirt simply because it is fused.

Based on the reading I've done, I personally would still give fused suits a pass; they don't have the structure of a canvased front. I've been experimenting with all the suits I come across at the thrift shops and can feel how they roll differently.

I have seen mention of how modern fusing bonds much better than in the past, but nothing about improved stiffness. My Barony suit is fully canvased (I can feel the third layer in the lower region). Since I can get a full canvas suit for that cheap, I would have a hard time accepting fused.

zegna suit wool harryrosen leather
(Source: www.pinterest.com)

I think a half-canvased suit is still worth looking at, however, depending on how the rest of it is built. MOX, the Barony suit I have is similar to the description of the Jack Victor given above, in that it is in fact fused top to bottom in the front.

But the outermost of the three layers in the front of the jacket, is obviously thicker than the material used for the sleeves, which is how I know it is fused. That's the description of a typical half-canvas: the entire front is fused and the top half is canvassed.

I have yet to hear of one that has fusing, at any rate. I just went back and checked, and my suit matches yours: the front layer is thicker than the sleeve. I felt higher up the front and found that the suit is actually half-canvassed, which makes more sense.

I was able to have the suit altered in three days, whereas my Isaiah takes upwards of two months. If you've been following this blog, you'll remember that I have been deconstructing suits at various price points to show how they are made.

This week we are taking a big jump in price to a $4,000 Tom Ford suit: As the former creative director for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, Ford is one of the most prominent and influential designers of the 21st century thus far.

zegna 44r suit mens piece classic enlargement
(Source: www.platinumliquidations.com)

His suits and sport coats are generally designed with a heavily structured shoulder, and he was an early adopter of the inevitable return to wide lapels. Now before you clothing connoisseurs break out your pitchforks and torches and march down 17th street, you should know that I didn't take knife to a perfectly good suit.

Tom Ford's men's clothing is highly regarded -- in some circles, it’s the gold standard of how a suit should fit. Because of his esteemed reputation and the price point, I assumed that the construction of his jackets would be of very high quality, even before I started cutting open the test subject.

There's pick stitching on nearly all the seams which traditionally denotes high quality and is presumably vestigial to how jackets used to be joined. Today, it’s solely for aesthetic reasons, and though it looks hand-done, it’s almost always made with a special stitching machine called an AMF, which is roughly the price of an entry level mid-size sedan.

This really doesn't make much difference to me and is true of the vast majority of garments, regardless of quality (both the $500 and $1,500 suits from previous posts had AMF pick stitching). Perhaps Tom Ford assumes that anyone purchase a $4,000 will pay the several hundred dollars to have buttonholes cut at the correct position.

It’s also possible that the sleeves were prepped and the buttons were added aftermarket without buttonholes, which is a real shame at this price point. The lapel buttonhole, also a vestigial feature nowadays, used for a boutonniere if at all, is beautifully done (see picture below).

suit plaid trofeo zegna ermenegildo wool piece
(Source: www.neimanmarcus.com)

I superimposed the guts over the jacket and colored it blue to make it easier to discern: Bank suits were entirely fused across the chest and lapel vs. a full floating canvas for the Tom Ford.

Unlike the body of a jacket, the lapel shouldn't float and the pad stitch keeps it in place. This extra strip of material helps the lapel find its natural roll and keeps it from looking flat.

It's hard to properly attach two pieces of fabric in a circle by machine. There is also some light padding (not pictured) that runs from the sleeve head down the sleeve an inch or two that helps create a clean transition.

At $4,000 a hand pad stitched lapel would not have been out of the question, and the sleeve buttonholes are a bit of a mystery. The fusing was much thicker and stiffer than usual, so clearly it was there to add substance and heft to the collar.

Ironically, this seemingly fancy detail required the use of a heavier than usual material inside the collar to accommodate the missing felt. Full line Ermenegildo Began and Isaiah are similarly priced and Piton and Bring are decidedly more expensive.

(Source: www.lyst.com)

But these are internationally esteemed fashion houses that are able to charge enormous prices because of prestige. As you might have suspected, in addition to finding suit construction interesting, I also have an ulterior motive for doing these tear-downs: My fully canvassed suits, made in Italy, that retail at $1,495 have superior construction to Tom Ford's (I expected them to be about the same) and thoroughly surpass the quality of the made in Mexico Began at the same price.

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Sources
1 www.yugioh.com - https://www.yugioh.com/episodes
2 www.yugioh.com - https://www.yugioh.com/yu-gi-oh-gx/not-playing-with-a-full-deck/354
3 www.yugioh.com - https://www.yugioh.com/yu-gi-oh-gx
4 yugioh.fandom.com - https://yugioh.fandom.com/wiki/Yu-Gi-Oh!_GX
5 www.yugiohlatin.com - https://www.yugiohlatin.com/p/yu-gi-oh-gx.html