So for those who have changed their O2 sensor, would you consider splicing the 3 wire to save a few bucks on the OEM adapter? Current price at autozone for the Bosch OEM part is $145.
It doesn't seem to run rich or lean, but it seemed he wanted to sell me a diagnostic at his shop. We need some resistance in the heating element, or it blows the fuses and gives you more codes.
I finally got my o2sensors replaced on my 94' with the 2 upstream sensors. My check light came on after an expecting meeting of a ditch in the middle of AZ in pouring snow.
I was lucky enough not to hit anything, but it did blow out my o2sensors. I found the Walker units on Amazon for $53 a piece, part # 250-24501 Same for both sides. If you don't have stock running boards, replacing the units is very easy.
I did reset my ECM after the install, and it took a good 50 miles for the truck to get up speed with idle and such. I have had them on for about 400 miles with no check lights and my idle has really smoothed out.
It was running around 450 rpm idle, Shaka and rough as *&^$. Now I have a nice 600 or so rpm, no shake and no rough spots.
Although I think it needs a basic tune up now that I have done a good inspection of all the bits and pieces in the engine bay. Hope this helps with some folks that have put off doing the o2sensors because of the $ of OEM's.
Sorry to say this, but I bought the exact same sensor, initial impression like yours was good, but it died after 6 months (burned out heater). Sorry to say this, but I bought the exact same sensor, initial impression like yours was good, but it died after 6 months (burned out heater).
I ask because I just put the same ones in today and hope they hold out for a bit. It always helps when folks followup with a review of parts performance.
Be it good or bad it lets others know what works and what should be avoided. If you do a search, you will find plenty of info on Bosch and the rest of the brands.
I am a creature of habit and stick to OEM parts. One of mine went out about a month ago, but the passenger side front took a big hit into a pothole I wasn't paying any attention for, and then my check light went on immediately, bad o2, so I don't really know if the o2 had lasted longer without the hit.
That's what the “Dunno...” was about. Anyway, they were working perfectly until I dropped the truck onto the dirt, and it set off the check light right away, so I'm pretty sure it was the hit that did the damage, not a malfunction of the o2 sensor. I know there is a lot of talk about the MAF being a very unreliable product from Bosche, and I was wondering if its the same with oxygen sensors.
I don't know anything about this Walker company, but as a rule, Bosch makes good products. I'd stick with practically everything OEM (and I think Bosch does make the O2sensors) if I were you.
Pray tell, what does Walker make that's OEM for Mercedes? Um, just to clarify, I didn't say they made anything OEM for Mercedes, just that they were a huge OEM and aftermarket supplier.
To my knowledge all their OEM supply is to the domestic market. They've been around a long time, I think even older than you, Ron.
Hey Ron I'm sure you heard about this walker ' Walker's a longtime aftermarket muffler company, products sold at NAPA, etc. It's in their “channels of distribution” to sell other exhaust equipment, hence O2sensors.
They're surely made by NTP, which is probably one of only two producers of O2sensors in the world. So I'm going to replace both 02 sensors, or at least the rearmost downstream one (throwing P0138 code).
I've never really heard of Walker i don't think, but that doesn't mean they wouldn't be good. I know Dodge uses a decent amount of Dense stuff as OEM.
Thanks for any help, otherwise ill Polly just go with the cheaper one, as i don't seem to have good luck with O2sensors in general. It varies but most of the factory V8 1998 Dodge O2sensors were made by the NTP division of NGC spark plugs.
Never used a WalkerO2 sensor, but Walker also makes Dynamic exhaust. I thought I'd heard of the Walker name before, but couldn't quite place where.
When shopping for a replacement car part, people often consider three important factors: cost, quality, and fitment. OEM (original equipment manufacturer) oxygen sensors are produced by the same company that made the parts already in your car.
Aftermarket oxygen sensors are produced by private companies that design their own parts. They determine every factor that goes into the part, including quality, materials, and connectors.
Most aftermarket parts are produced with below-average quality materials and designed with a generic fit. But the majority of aftermarket companies do the bare minimum and offer generic parts made of subpar quality materials.
OEM oxygen sensors are specifically designed to work optimally with your Toyota’s ECU. Installation is easy because Toyota oxygen sensors will have the exact connector you need for your vehicle.
There’s still no guarantee that it’ll outperform an OEM oxygen sensor when it comes to working with your ECU and withstanding the continuous exposure to hot exhaust. They do this to make it easy for Toyota owners to find the right replacement parts for their car.
You just have to put your Toyota's year and model in an authorized parts search engine, such as this one. It’s a big task for a small part that might not even function as well as its OEM counterpart.
Find the right OEM oxygen sensor for your Toyota year model by doing a search here. The sensors must provide accurate information otherwise drive ability problems, increased fuel consumption and emission failures can result.
Federal emission laws made O2sensors virtually mandatory on all cars and light trucks built since 1981. A lot of factors can affect the relative richness or leanness of the fuel mixture, including air temperature, engine coolant temperature, barometric pressure, throttle position, air flow and engine load.
The computer takes its cues from the O2 sensor and responds by changing the fuel mixture. This is referred to as “closed loop” operation because the computer is using the O2 sensor's input to regulate the fuel mixture.
The result is a constant flip-flop back and forth from rich to lean which allows the catalytic converter to operate at peak efficiency while keeping the average overall fuel mixture in proper balance to minimize emissions. This is referred to as “open loop” operation because no input is used from the O2 sensor to regulate the fuel mixture.
If the engine fails to go into closed loop when the O2 sensor reaches operating temperature, or drops out of closed loop because the O2 sensor's signal is lost, the engine will run too rich causing an increase in fuel consumption and emissions. Inside the vented cover on the end of the sensor that screws into the exhaust manifold is a zirconium ceramic bulb.
The difference in oxygen levels between the exhaust and outside air within the sensor causes voltage to flow through the ceramic bulb. When the O2 sensor reading goes lean (low voltage), the computer reverses again making the fuel mixture go rich.
The transition rate is the slowest on engines with feedback carburetors, typically once per second at 2500 rpm. The oxygen sensor must be hot (about 600 degrees or higher) before it will start to generate a voltage signal, so many oxygen sensors have a small heating element inside to help them reach operating temperature more quickly.
The heating element can also prevent the sensor from cooling off too much during prolonged idle, which would cause the system to revert to open loop. If it sees little or no change in oxygen level readings, it means the converter is not working properly.
Sensor Diagnosis O2sensors are amazingly rugged considering the operating environment they live in. This kind of deterioration can be caused by a variety of substances that find their way into the exhaust such as lead, silicone, sulfur, oil ash and even some fuel additives.
The sensor can also be damaged by environmental factors such as water, splash from road salt, oil and dirt. As the sensor ages and becomes sluggish, the time it takes to react to changes in the air/fuel mixture slows down which causes emissions to go up.
If the sensor dies altogether, the result can be a fixed, rich fuel mixture. One EPA study found that 70% of the vehicles that failed an/M 240 emissions test needed a new O2 sensor.
You can read the O2 sensor's output with a scan tool or digital voltmeter, but the transitions are hard to see because the numbers jump around so much. A goodO2 sensor should produce an oscillating waveform at idle that makes voltage transitions from near minimum (0.1 v) to near maximum (0.9v).
Making the fuel mixture artificially rich by feeding propane into the intake manifold should cause the sensor to respond almost immediately (within 100 milliseconds) and go to maximum (0.9v) output. Creating a lean mixture by opening a vacuum line should cause the sensor's output to drop to its minimum (0.1v) value.
If the O2 sensor circuit opens, shorts or goes out of range, it may set a fault code and illuminate the Check Engine or Malfunction Indicator Lamp. But many O2sensors that are badly degraded continue to work well enough not to set a fault code-but not well enough to prevent an increase in emissions and fuel consumption.
The absence of a fault code or warning lamp, therefore, does not mean the O2 sensor is functioning properly. Replacing an aging O2 sensor that has become sluggish can restore peak fuel efficiency, minimize exhaust emissions and prolong the life of the converter.