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Are Walker Evans Shocks Rebuildable

author
Maria Johnson
• Sunday, 06 December, 2020
• 7 min read

Pause slideshowPlay slideshow To get the most out of your suspension and enjoy the best ride quality possible, high-pressure gas shocks need to be tuned for each individual rider. As Bruce Schaapveld, long-time suspension expert and owner of B-Line Control, puts it, “These are like an Armani suit.

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(Source: www.race-dezert.com)

Contents

Often a rider buys a new sled with IFP gas shocks, sets the spring preload and forgets it. It's not really feasible for the factory to tune shocks for every application, riding style and rider weight.

Whether it's FOX, Ryder, HP (Kaaba), Walker Evans or Online, you need the shim stacks inside the shock body correctly calibrated to suit you, your riding style and the conditions you normally ride in. To do this, the size, thickness and number of shims on the valve stack in each shock must be changed to provide optimal performance.

An IFP shock's design and components are fairly simple, but to create a better ride, the difference is in the setup details. At about 200-300 psi, the gas reservoir keeps the oil under extreme pressure to prevent it from foaming.

In simplest terms, if you increase the number, size and/or thickness of the shims, you have a stiffer setup. If you decrease the number, size and/or thickness of the shims, you have a softer setup.

In turn, this will provide a smoother, more sensitive and progressive shock action. In addition, the size or diameter of small shims that support the larger ones has an impact on shock performance.

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Once you have arrived at the optimal setup for your sled, you must regularly change the shock's oil. You can buy the equipment, including a nitrogen tank, tools, shims, seals and shock oil, for about $200.

Schaapveld has been race mechanic for Jack Truthers and the Yamaha factory uncross team, and he can take just a little info from a rider and come up with a setup that's spot-on. On the day we visited, we rebuilt HP GT-A (Take-Apart) aluminum center and rear shocks.

Use an inflation end tip on the Schrader valve to release the nitrogen from the shock. Step 3: Thread the Schrader valve assembly and attach a catch cloth or sock to the end.

Step 4: Next, remove the damper retainer not on the shock rod with a socket and a ratchet. This is often called a Christmas tree stack because the bottom shims are a wider diameter than the shims on top. At this point in the rebuild, all the components, which include shock rod, piston, body and all seals, and bumpers, need to be inspected for damage or abnormal wear.

If the rod shaft is bent, chipped, deeply scratched or the finish is flaking off, it will contaminate the shock fluid. If the internal floating piston is worn on one side more than another, it won't effectively hold a seal.

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(Source: www.americansuburbx.com)

Anytime an IFP shock is disassembled, seals (which are relatively inexpensive) should be replaced, even if wear or damage isn't readily apparent. Therefore, this incremental valve stack will provide soft low-speed (low-shock speed) performance for trail chatter up to 6 inches, and it will provide progressive damping as shaft velocity increases to high speed for big 2-3-foot bumps.

The top out bumper is positioned between the shock body cap and the compression stack. The higher barometer rubber and top quality provide seal performance and longevity that often exceeds OEM standards.

In particular, the Tech Syn shock scraper seal is an improved flat design that helps stop water and contaminants from entering the shock body, and the internal floating piston seal provides superior performance and helps prevent flat spotting and eventual gas blow-by, which will contaminate the oil. Step 7: When the entire shim stack, O-rings and pistons have been reinstalled on the shock, it's time for reassembly.

Schaapveld uses a custom PVC tube to reinstall the floating piston to the correct depth. 5 Light (STL) are two of the best shock oils, and their performance is less affected by water contamination.

Carefully and smoothly slide the shock rod assembly into the bore and make sure the body cap seal or O-ring is lubricated. Step 9: Connect the nitrogen supply to the Schrader valve and set the regulator at 200-300 psi to pressurize the oil chamber in the shock body.

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You need to obtain the correct factory spec again from the OEM's racing/high performance manual or from your dealer. Our HP shock requires 300 psi. If you're doing this on your own, it's a good idea to “bench test” it to make sure it operates smoothly and correctly.

For many years, these units were for the dedicated off-road racer only -- the person who had the budget to afford them, the staff to rebuild them, and the knowledge to set them up for their optimum performance. Their performance, maintenance, and affordability have been able to keep up with their supply and demand, while continuing to improve the products for new applications and vehicles as well.

Shock Type: Coil over Size (Body Diameter): 2-inch and 2.5-inch Eyelet Bore Size: 9/16 inch without sleeves, 1/2 inch with sleeves Eyelet Type: Teflon-lined 4130 spherical bearing Adjustable: Yes Reservoir: Yes I have 2.5” fronts and Performance valved and sprung WE shocks on my car and love the improvements over the crap stock springs with no cross-over adjustment. I'm sure they both have quality tech centers, but I chose to stay with the source.

I have 2.5” fronts and Performance valved and sprung WE shocks on my car and love the improvements over the crap stock springs with no cross-over adjustment. I'm sure they both have quality tech centers, but I chose to stay with the source. The shock Therapy kit is a do-it-yourself re-spring and upgrade for less than $900 and WE are a full rebuild revolve and respiring with aback springs for $1500.

Money not really being an issue, just wondering if a revolve and fluid change is worth the extra $600. I think you're going to spend more than $900 to get ST to rebuild, revolve, and respiring your shocks.

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(Source: www.atv.com)

If money isn't an issue why not spend an extra $600 to have the company that builds the shock work their magic. I am located in So Cal and can do any of the above mentioned services for you at a very competitive price.

I can do the rebuild, respiring, revolve or the entire Stage 3 as you mentioned. I am a Walker dealer and have everything in stock to service Walker Evans 1000 shocks.

I have 2.5” fronts and Performance valved and sprung WE shocks on my car and love the improvements over the crap stock springs with no cross-over adjustment. I'm sure they both have quality tech centers, but I chose to stay with the source. The shock Therapy kit is a do-it-yourself re-spring and upgrade for less than $900 and WE are a full rebuild revolve and respiring with aback springs for $1500.

Money not really being an issue, just wondering if a revolve and fluid change is worth the extra $600. Bought all the valving, oil, seals, springs and I did the work myself.

To answer your question SoCalRZRXP41K, the spring kit (whichever route you go) gives you a nominal result. You will get the ground clearance most are looking for, better bottoming resistance, and less bucking because you will have a usable tender, but the true key is in the oil flow, (piston, valving) to get the adjustability and true performance out of the shock.

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(Source: www.the-border.com)

Adding the crossovers also helps tune the shock to eliminate bottoming and bucking. In my opinion, if you drive harder than the average trail guy, the revolve is worth the money along with the springs, they go hand in hand as far as I'm concerned.

YES and YES Long answer, whether you have Walker, or any other company perform the services, the only real difference you will have is the valving and actual car setup.

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